Show Report: FW 2008-09 Textile Trends
Courtesy of Premiere Vision Le Salon
Fabric Direction Men’s, Women’s, Children’s: Coverage from Premiere Vision, the mother of all international textile shows for the fashion sector…. Fall / Winter 2008 -2009, this season’s trend concept is for inventing tomorrow’s reality, and writing modern fables with fabric. Lovingly uniting fabric materiality and air, to affirm the alchemy of a fashion structured yet free of constraint. Take flight with all the lightness of colour.
Premiere Vision. Invent Tomorrow’s Reality
A season for inventing tomorrow’s reality, and writing modern fables with fabric. Lovingly uniting fabric materiality and air, to affirm the alchemy of a fashion structured yet free of constraint. Accentuating the riven, to take flight with all the lightness of colour, density and suaveness. Playing on the ambiguities of ultra-monochro or extreme contrasts. Disguising transgression with a forward-looking energy. Shifting the axis, and anachronistically digressing. Encountering suppleness, flirting with ruggedness, and rendering generously visible. Confidently holding on to the imaginary thread of creativity, to realise all possibilities.
Ambivalence Being swallowed by duality with all the energy of its advantages and richness. Striking a balance between an inner intimacy and an outer superficiality, the personal and the public, modesty and unbridled excess. Simultaneously satisfying a need for what is essential and a desire for frivolity.
Grooming appearances to the extreme while cultivating secret gardens. Multiplying sparks of contact between the visible and the hidden, the interior and the exterior. Revelling in affinities between the everyday and the exceptional, between irony and perfection, aesthetics and ethics. Playing on ambiguities between what is diffused and neat, upsetting reality through chinés disturbed by neatness. Listening to the unclear confidences of fabrics, with the blurred structures of generous and contrasting yarns and of determined brushings. Being carried away by benefi cent and delicate shadings, favouring fabrics with a whitened mist to better reveal their matter. Bringing to light one’s hesitations and perplexities through scrawled, scratched, wavering patterns.
Cultivating the connivances between animal and vegetal, with wools infiltrated by linen, hemp, cotton or paper, to exalt unusual behaviours and handles. Fostering confusion, and creating mutant beings and hybrid animals with quilted silks, jacquards with gleaming volume, wet wools recalling supple carapaces. Playing on enigmas, by heightening confusions between knits and wovens.
Savouring the complicities between blackness and colours, making butterflies vibrate in the dark of night for exciting shot fabrics, for bright and mysterious blackenings. Exhilarating in strange digressions, and letting deviant and diverging patterns come into the light. Embracing all-in-oneness to satisfy appearance, comfort and aesthetics with perfect reversibles, double faces with contrasting - or insidiously opposite - colours, aspects and patterns.
Being touched by transformations of raw material, and diving into the power of the living. Finding inspiration in natural or artificially stimulated metamorphoses, to transcribe the beauty found in bubbling effervescence, in fusion and dispersion. Seeking harmony in chaos, deconstructing so as to reconstruct, and modifying in order to embellish. Passionately experimenting with mutations of raw materials to attain visual and tactile exceptions.
Diving into the turbulence of nature to wrap oneself in fabrics with tormented, striated and veined surfaces. Underlining the eternity of time with fossilised waffl ings and jellified motifs.
Moving into vegetal visuals to transform them into felted looks with haphazard volumes. Playing on the forces of the improbable to surpass the known in airy and generous jacquards, knits and laces.
Relying on irregularities in yarns and fabrics to be swathed in an offbeat rusticity, with sturdy cottons, woollens with sophisticated brushings or evanescent knits. Exacerbating the prickly and harsh handles of dry woollens and crepes. Moving closer to the visual hardness of boiled fabrics to lend military looks a romantic air, through disorganised brushed broadcloths, warmed up suitings, and bumpy felts.
Diving into the changing states of fluid matter and perfecting shirrings in improbable moires. Cultivating the versatility of liquid reflections, and congealing polluted shadows in fabrics, through creamy silks with runny thickness, through denims and cottons with viscous coatings and leather refl ections. Becoming a gold digger, and capturing the fleetingness of unreal oxidations and marvellous substances with tweeds, moving embroideries and prints.
Going beyond the known, and adopting a futuristic and poetic approach. Opting for the anachronism that derails logic and opens the door to inspiring shifts and derivations. Finding anchor in the present, to project into, and dream of, a different reality, one still out of focus, yet in the process of becoming. Relying on the optimistic energy of imaginary worlds to discover fabrics that invite us to think of clothing in a different way.
Trying to put technologies at the service of the imagination, to provoke new partnerships between aesthetic and scientific research, between the organic and the industrial.
The Fancy and Fluid Universe
The universe of seduction and fantasy never ceases perfecting and adjusting weights and behaviours to new uses, adapted to contemporary lifestyles. Coats, jackets and other structured pieces are limitlessly enlivened, wool inserts or imposes itself in silks, lace and embroideries. Air fills and lightens fabrics in thickened, exacerbated, puffy volumes, for skilful combinations of materiality and malleability. In all know-hows, shine is vibrant, plastic or muffled. Decorations are divided between organic abstraction and complex graphics.
On the one hand, nature in total metamorphosis inspires informal patterns ranging between mimicry and imaginary material effects. Marbled prints, bumpy jacquards, animal or mineral digressions, seismic laces, scrawled, shirred, organic embroideries. In contrast, decors risk a certain grandiloquence, giant patterns grow rampant, scales are overdrawn, lace is grandiose, precious silks are updated through non-traditional patterns, embroideries dare accumulations with appliques on decorative bases. Prints flaunt their artistic references, citing painters, illustrators and artists, both contemporary and past. Graphics create a hybrid of nature and geometry, while contrasts are tempered to avoid being aggressive. Ultra-coded paisleys, scarf and exotic designs are treated with humour and irony, and manipulated with a grating virtuosity.
coats Coats take greedily to decoration. Thick wools are generously embroidered or sculpted with visible structures, giant honeycombs, and extroverted jacquards. Combining volume and lightness, waffl ed, quilted and bulky raised textures suggest unusual shapes and unlined uses. Shine grows plastic or oxidised. Woollens are enlivened by cellophane yarns, are covered with vinyl transparencies or evoke patinated metal. Tweeds and carded wools are softened for deconstructed and enveloping shapes that seek thickness without weight. Checks are more irreverent and flirt with eccentricity, either ultra-graphic of roughly boiled.
ensembles Medium weights with a lightly augmented density target coat/dress ensembles. Wool and silk multiply their connivances, in bi-material jacquards, geometric waffles, bark textures, precious sandwiches or bulky fabrics that are at once cosy and vaporous. The structures of ottomans and silky fancy wovens are amplifi ed and underlined. Plain or jacquard metallics are oxidised, coal-dusted, and shot looks are blackened. Lame and brocade evoke sophisticated bodyworks, the carapaces of beetles animated by sumptuously modernised graphics. A ’40s couture spirit is expressed in blurred fabrics, silky throwns and tweeds, punctuated by mini retro geometrics for women’s suits with an ultra feminine bulky volume.
dresses and tops
Dresses and blouses open themselves to the sophistication of synthetic or warm laces inviting day-to-day employ, as well as to layerings and innovative uses. Decor is engineered, or elaborated in details. Silks with lacquered effects, wet aspects and crepes find interpretation in knits and wovens, combined with draping or washed behaviours for dresses or tops. Knit plays on discreet shine, with jerseys with underlying sparkle. A woolly lightness is imposed in tops through misty veils, delicately boiled, opaque etamines, knits with a suave and warm fineness, and plays on open-worked stitches.
The elegant, formal and tailored universe The universe of distinction and tailoring takes a determined path towards fashion that is on the one hand influenced by couture, and on the other by a soft and relaxed elegance. Beyond visible effects, fabrics interiorise their full scope of richness in behaviours and handles, creating materials to sculpt and shape. They suggest clothing oriented to rounded or angular lines, and reserved or pronounced silhouettes. In menswear and womenswear, knits and wovens cultivate ambiguity. Shirtings grow darker, playing on a total look, or provide a subtle shift in context through affi rmed rhythms or contrasts.
coats Coatings incarnate the full power of textile expression. Reversibles showcase double plays on fabrics or colours, alternating discretion and fantasy. Double weaves and knits grow thicker, right up to overcoat weights. Softness is extreme, with cashmeres and alpacas that are almost suave, and hairy and brushed fabrics that are profoundly soft. Boiled fabrics and felted knits are crushed and compressed for stiffened pea coats. Cottons with lustrous or satiny visuals are firmly set, hermetically closed. A chic technology is affi rmed through pure or blended synthetics, which fully assume their specific handle and crunch.
A uniform influence with tight cavalry twills, cover cloth and wool/cotton knits, for almost hard handles. Flannels, tennis stripes and elegant Prince of Wales adopt blurry visuals and delicately washed fi nishings. Tweeds and shetlands are more supple, and drawn with peacefully coloured checks. Openly mistreated, raw boiled fabrics with slightly lumpy surfaces bring out fibre oppositions in wool, cotton or linen. Consistency and suppleness are combined in double crêpes and weaves with a thick roundness for women’s jackets and cropped coats.
men’s and women’s suits
High-tech nobility emerges in compact wools with dry or glazed, almost technical, handles. Dynamic elasticity enriches the fluidity of wool/polyamide or wool/viscose blends. Fineness touches on performance, with perfectly opaque lightness, downy fl annels, and superfi ne wools with barely-there brushings. Masculine suitings play on archetypes of seriousness: microscopic end-and-ends, ultra-simple stripes, and invisible performance.
dresses and skirts
Clearly feminine wools and specifi c weights targeting dresses: wool crêpes warm and fluid viscose blends, glazed or satiny shine. Small graphic two-tones with a ‘40s spirit, and jerseys and interlocks to be used like wovens.
Ever finer, ever more chic, dense and light, cottons move closer to silky handles with impeccable mercerisings and glazed aspects. Patterns grow miniature to the point of semi-plains, imitating suitings in end-and-ends or micro houndstooths with optically greyed colourways, while, in a bolder direction, stripes with strong contrasts play on accentuated or non-synchronised rhythms. Fine knits, blocked and mercerised, verge on an urban elegance.
small knitted items
Patterns grow ever fi ner to resemble semi-plains with end-and-end effects and mini-geometrics. Flaunting tradition, diamonds play on scale, are recomposed in engineered patterns, and play on extra-soft colourways.
To more closely follow fabric evolutions, linings are high-performance, stretch, easy-care or anti-bacterial. To play on surprise and contrast, metallic gleam, extravagant patterns and spectacular stripes await offbeat uses.
disguising discretion Rethinking the chic of grey blends, flannels, vigoureux and end-and-ends for a true total look. Using coats, suits, shirts and polos to make almost maniacal tone-on-tones.
playing on ambiguities Raising imperfection to the level of perfection, and teaming the impeccable with the relaxed, neatness with the generously blurry. Meticulously fi nished details in rawness, and a negligent treatment of strictness. Combining ultra-chic shirtings with puffy woollens, knit or woven, in the same silhouette.
eluding rigour Fabrics with the allure of uniforms have their codes diverted for clothing with offbeat shapes. Pea coats, military greatcoats, regiment-style cavalry twills and work-force clothing are pacified by the colourful ingenuity of casual shirts, either square-lined or flowered.
assuming contrasts Cultivating the art of surprise through unexpected multi-layers. Confi dently drawing silhouettes with precious blacknesses that are enlivened by bold colour contrasts. Unveiling under asphalt-refl ection overcoats springy suitings and shirts with strong and daring graphic accents. Rethinking the chic of grey blends, flannels, vigoureux and end-and-ends for a true total look. Using coats, suits, shirts and polos to make almost maniacal tone-on-tones.
playing on ambiguities
Raising imperfection to the level of perfection, and teaming the impeccable with the relaxed, neatness with the generously blurry. Meticulously fi nished details in rawness, and a negligent treatment of strictness. Combining ultra-chic shirtings with puffy woollens, knit or woven, in the same silhouette.
Fabrics with the allure of uniforms have their codes diverted for clothing with offbeat shapes. Pea coats, military greatcoats, regiment-style cavalry twills and work-force clothing are pacifi ed by the colourful ingenuity of casual shirts, either square-lined or flowered.
Cultivating the art of surprise through unexpected multi-layers. Confidently drawing silhouettes with precious blacknesses that are enlivened by bold colour contrasts. Unveiling under asphalt-reflection overcoats springy suitings and shirts with strong and daring graphic accents.
The casualwear, sportswear and jeanswear universe
The relaxed universe pursues its quest for refi nement by favoring connections between a casual attitude and quality. More than ever, fi nding the right balance between weights, handles and behaviours is key to creating products that are softly structured and free of stiffness. Cotton works in collusion with synthetics, consistency teams with suaveness, weaves are drawn discreetly and mattness gains ground. Suiting visuals adopt a clearly cottony and sportswear identity. Asphalt aspects emerge in denim, cotton and knits with a muffled gleam and rubbery touches. Knits ally comfort and fantasy by flirting with jacket or blouson weights.
casual pants: A suiting influence generates patterns with multiple interpretations: clearly contrasted with tiny country-style checks and English-style tattersall, or discreetly blurred. With neatness and softness, cottons and corduroys feature impeccable surfaces traced with imperceptible weaves. They are softened through emerised, subtly whitened fi nishings, and are warmed up with a hint of wool. Irregular weaves allow yarn irregularities to emerge on the surface for raw visuals with soft handles. Shine is synthetic, underlying, and attenuated by weaves or emerised fi nishings.
jackets/coats and outerwear
Cotton is repeatedly called upon to enhance comfort and protection. It is both technical and 100% natural, water-resistant thanks to imperceptible treatments, soft and generous with moleskins and wide-wale corduroys, compact and soft with pea-coat style double faces. Knits are imposed in jacket and blouson weights, with interlocks or woolly double knits. A technical gleam dresses cotton/polyamides, which plays on tactile contrasts, opposing brushed backs and smooth glazed faces. Plastic shine is expressed through crackled vinyls and varnishes playing on the ambiguity between animal and mineral.
Denim pursues its quest for chicness with neat visuals reminiscent of suitings, with dense and covered weaves right up to satins. “Flannel” finishings and true wool blends, in accents, warm up denims without causing them to lose their identity. Refinement plays on contrast, with indigos with colourful or shiny backs, to lend attention to the reverse side of clothing, or cuffs. Flirting with rawness, weaves show off yarn irregularities and plays on fi bres with strong character, such as linen, raw silk or even banana.
shirtings and overshirtings
Variations around the theme of checks: re-sized tartans either very small or very large, darkened handkerchief checks, or windowpane checks in softened colours set off with touches of freshness. Cottons have relaxed or overdyed finishings. In prints, for shirtings and tops, there are florals filled with muffled colourways, mini geometrics and Art Nouveau motifs.
sweats and knit tops
Relaxed knitwear emphasises noble blends and refi ned visuals. Wool joins with cotton in double faces that ally exterior warmth and comfort close to the skin. Knits mix with viscose for a creamy consistency, and push luxury all the way to pure cashmere. Jerseys are refi ned to the point of translucency, for layerings and combinations of greedy colours. Dense and fl exible, cottons favour a heightened elasticity for products with shapely lines. As for decors, the two-toned simplicity of sailor stripes is sophisticated through the use of muffled chine and plain colours.
The sport, technical and performance universe
The active and technical universe, whether for sport, beach or lingerie, confi rms its enthusiasm for high-tech research to enhance performance or address environmental concerns. Aesthetics are of growing importance, and often provide the key to differentiation. Nature, a source of sporting pleasure, calls for respect and reciprocity, while fashion imposes seductive, innovative and fantasy products. The most advanced technologies are put at the service of visual aspects and sought-out behaviours, while fi bres target made-to-measure functionality and protection. Depending on each product’s fi nal destination, stretch targets either comfort or springiness, while weights and behaviours vary between lightness and density.
Activewear with a particularly urban aspect, where nature and technology combine for the best: wool is boosted by thermal fi bres or high-performance bondings and membranes; denims and cottons adopt climatic and/or waterproof functions for board sports. For reinforcements and protective clothing, high-resistance synthetics have a comfortable fl exibility. They adopt a spruce allure, as in distinct weaves and discreet matt and shiny damasks. A silky spirit moves into outerwear with shot, water-resistant fabrics and dyed-yarn checks in a taffeta spirit, and brushed or powdery metallic shine. Crunchy featherweights are adorned in lacquered refl ections for products to be wadded or quilted. For light outerwear that can be worn alone or layered under heavier items, ultra-stretch augments the performance of membranes, bondings, windproofi ngs, breathable and/or water-resistant properties. Double faces and softshells play on the technology/comfort alliance, as in protective synthetics with warm backs. Fleeces are complex, enriched with water-resistant and breathing functions, or enriched with wool to provide more softness and warmth.
Under garments, beachwear Continued emphasis on greater performance, here suited to contact with the skin: climatic, thermal, anti bacterial, fast drying. For beachwear, anti-UV and chlorine resistant functionalities are proposed for graphic knits with hold, either tone-on-tone for jacquards or energetic for prints and stripes.
lingerie, intimate apparel
Fibres with perfectly-adapted functionalities are discreetly integrated to favour a certain well-being and comfort. Lingerie oscillates between a vaunted technology and the most intimate softness. Visuals are discreet, stripes miniaturised and neutral. Corsetry lace is ultra fine, playing on prickly and delicate flowers.
fibre innovations, textile creations Envisioning the future of a product as of its inception, looking ahead to each stage of its manufacture, right up to its disintegration, with natural or synthetic, recyclable or recycled fibers. The family of fibers developed responsibly from nature is growing: banana, coconut, corn, soy, paper, kapok, algae, milk or crustacean chitin.